Review

Yu Ting Yuan, Four Seasons Bangkok’s flagship Cantonese restaurant, is a modern and stylish oasis of calm overlooking a feng shui pond. Chef Tommy Cheung, who was appointed in 2023, has created a tasting menu showcasing his signature dishes together with a la carte selections that offer many options of both the traditional and modern. Begin with the classic dim sum of cheung fun, rice roll stuffed with prawns, along with a contrasting lobster and seafood dumpling. Follow with abalone pie, a flaky tartlet filled with tender abalone.

The recommended platter of pork arrives: a trio of crispy pork belly, suckling pig and barbecued pork, tasty and textural. It is worthwhile exploring the a la carte menu for gems such as braised toothfish with crispy pork and tofu in a rich brown sauce. Kagoshima wagyu A5 striploin is available wok-fried or stir-fried with XO sauce, the latter slightly spicy and a true highlight. The rice options are extensive, with abalone rice and foie gras in lotus leaf a stand-out.

For dessert, chilled mango and sago cream with pomelo is a refreshing finale. The wine list is, as one would expect, comprehensive and the range of teas on offer is appropriately world-class, including an unforgettable dark tea from Hunan, the super exclusive Tian Jian 2009.