New Captains: Fashion's Biggest Houses Welcome Their Next Generation of Leaders

Koktail Magazine

07 Oct 2024


Fashion's Game of Thrones is here! As Sarah Burton takes the reins at Givenchy, Haider Ackermann reimagines Tom Ford, Clare Waight Keller elevates Uniqlo and Michael Rider returns to Celine, 2025 is set to be a thrilling year of fresh perspectives.

Hold onto your stilettos fashion aficionados! 2025 has unleashed a whirlwind of creative musical chairs, with design powerhouses swapping seats faster than models change outfits backstage. From luxury titans to street-style stars, the industry's tectonic plates are shifting. Brace yourselves for a year where heritage meets innovation, sustainability gets sexy and unexpected alliances rewrite the style rulebook. Here's your front-row ticket to the most exciting moves, from the most recent to the earliest announcements of the year:

Sarah Burton Leads the Way at Givenchy

Announced as Creative Director from December 1, 2025

Sarah Burton's move to Givenchy is no small shift. She's got a solid track record from Alexander McQueen, known for her precision and dark, romantic edge. Now, the real question is how she'll handle the Givenchy legacy—will she stay traditional or bring in her signature grit? Either way, expect a focus on sustainability and inclusivity as standard, not spectacle.

Simone Rocha Brings Whimsy to Valentino

Announced as Creative Director from November 1, 2025

Simone Rocha, the princess of ethereal whimsy, is ready to sprinkle her fairy dust over Valentino as the new creative director. Valentino's timeless elegance is set to receive youthful, rebellious sprinkles atop its calm, mature core—like your grandmother’s pearls crashing a punk concert. It’s unexpected, but absolutely fabulous! The fashion world is about to become a lot dreamier!

Haider Ackermann Revamps Tom Ford

Named Creative Director on September 15, 2025

Tom Ford's decision to tap Haider Ackermann represents a pivot as much as it is a strategic play. In contrast to flashy glamour, Ackermann is making his mark with subtle rebellion and sharp tailoring. Fans of the sleek Tom Ford aesthetic might be in for a surprise. Ackermann is more likely to dismantle than embellish, but his approach is sure to keep things interesting.

Grace Wales Bonner Freshens Up Louis Vuitton Menswear

Named Artistic Director of Menswear on July 7, 2025

Following in the footsteps of the late, beloved Virgil Abloh, Grace Wales Bonner promises to infuse her distinctive voice into this luxury giant with a captivating fusion of cultural narratives and fashion. Celebrated for weaving influences from her Jamaican heritage and British roots, Bonner’s designs offer a fresh perspective that resonates in today’s fashion landscape. Her appointment pays homage to Abloh’s legacy of inclusivity and innovation, celebrating diversity and craftsmanship in a sophisticated and thought-provoking way.

Clare Waight Keller Elevates Uniqlo

Appointed Global Creative Officer on June 1, 2025

Clare Waight Keller's appointment at Uniqlo marks a sophisticated refinement in the brand’s aesthetic. Rather than introducing runway drama to the high street, she focuses on smart, functional design that embodies understated elegance. Expect pieces that blend style with practicality, crafted to stand the test of time. Waight Keller's approach promises to elevate Uniqlo’s offerings while maintaining its signature identity—emphasising timelessness over fleeting trends.

Michael Rider Returns to Celine

Named Artistic Director on February 14, 2025

Michael Rider is back at Celine and it's the kind of move that feels like it was written in the stars. A decade after working under Phoebe Philo, Rider returns to pick up where the house's minimalist cool left off. With Hedi Slimane making his exit, Rider's arrival is perfectly timed to bring a quieter, more refined luxury back into the mix. Couture, leather, accessories—he's taking the reins on everything and it's all going down in early 2025.