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Koktail Magazine
19 Aug 2024
“I think it would be brilliant if we could drink feelings,”
mused Arnon ‘KK’ Hoontrakul.
KK, a well-known figure in the food and drink world, recalls his first visit to the building that would become the Opium Bar. At the time, the ground floor was a shoe shop, the second floor stored stock, and the upper floors were closed off. On the accessible floor, he found old opium beds hidden away—a relic from the days when opium was legal. Inspired by this discovery, he named the bar ‘Opium, reflecting the opium experience, offering patrons a journey that takes them to different places, much like smoking opium once did.
Now, KK and his crew have created a unique cocktail experience with their latest offering: the Expression Menu.
This new menu introduces 18 new cocktails inspired by different places around the world. When you open the menu, with its luxurious green design, you'll find each page dedicated to themes as follows: Mangrove Forest, Issan, Oaxaca, Nicaragua, China Town, and Morganic Flower Farm, each offering 3 distinct cocktails that present in a progression from mild to strong.
“Each drink is like a mini trip to a specific place, captured in a glass,”
KK explains.
“We want our cocktails to be more than just a drink,”
KK notes.
“They should evoke emotions and memories, and the glassware plays a crucial role in that experience. The artists we work with are incredibly talented, and their creations help elevate our cocktails to a true art form.”
One of the standout features of the Expression menu is its collaboration with local artists. KK’s commitment to showcasing local talent is reflected in the bar’s glassware. The BGC glass studio in Bangkok blew the glasses for the Sticky Situation cocktail menu, while some of the other glasses are made from Sukhothai ceramics by Mothana Ceramics, adding a layer of local craftsmanship to each drink.
Furthermore, the Poker Face menu from the China Town collection features glasses made from Sukhothai ceramics by Mothana Ceramics. Sagon Luerist, an artist who works with iron, has created poppy flowers that are burned and dipped in a drink until they sizzle. The Los Parados cocktail from the Oaxaca collection also features glasses made from Sukhothai soil.
For the Morning Moon menu in the Oaxaca collection, the original plan was to use Mezcal Gourds, traditional containers for Mezcal. However, due to their impracticality and lack of durability, the team collaborated with an artist in Northern Thailand, Kantee Pintong, to create brass containers with intricate carvings.
“I want to highlight the craftsmanship of each artist, just like my team and I see cocktails as a form of art. Every glass is perfected through trial and error.”
The mangrove forest was the first place the team visited. The names have historical significance; for example, ‘Sticky Situation’ from this collection is named after the sticky soil of the mangrove forest. While ginseng is used in ‘Mangrove Whisper’ to reflect the earthy tones of the mangrove collection.
“It’s a whole experience, starting with the glass I choose,”
KK explains.
“For example, the Mali cocktail features a leaf decoration on top, reflecting the time when people would visit mangrove forests. We want customers to experience the leaf being close to their face as they drink, enhancing the sensory connection.”
The first step in the process is to evoke the feeling of visiting certain places, transforming cherished memories into beverages.
For the Issan collection, “More Rum More Lum” draws inspiration from Mor Lum, a traditional Thai performance that has evolved from simple storytelling to large-scale performances. The Morganic Flower Farm collection features edible flowers sourced from Wang Nam Khiao, Thailand.
Sustainability extends to the ingredients used in the cocktails as well. For the Elegantissimo cocktail in the Nicaragua collection, KK utilises coffee grounds and banana peels from Potong, which was awarded Restaurant of the Year by Thailand’s Favourite Restaurants 2024.
“We’re constantly looking for ways to reduce waste,”
KK says.
“For example, we infuse the banana peels leftover from Potong to create a new liqueur, and we use the leftover coffee grounds. To achieve clarity in the liqueur, we need to remove the turbidity caused by the ingredients. Typically, milk is added and then filtered to remove residue, such as protein whey. This whey, combined with banana peels, is repurposed to make cookies, adding a creative touch to the cocktail’s presentation.”
Similarly, the rum used in “More Rum More Lum” from the Issan collection is made from molasses, with KK bringing back sugarcane bagasse to smoke for this cocktail.
“We visit distilleries and refineries to see how the ingredients are processed and make sure we’re doing our bit for a circular economy.”
KK explains.
KK’s fascination with cocktails began in his childhood. Growing up in his family’s restaurant in Paris, he was fascinated by the transformation of ingredients into complex flavours.
“I remember watching bartenders mix drinks and being amazed by how something so simple could become something magical,”
he recalls.
“It’s that sense of transformation that drives me in cocktail creation.”
The Expression menu reflects this philosophy, with each cocktail designed to take patrons on a sensory journey. For example, the “Morning Moon” cocktail from Oaxaca was initially intended to be served in traditional Mezcal gourds. However, due to durability concerns, KK teamed up with a Northern Thai artist to create brass containers that are both functional and visually appealing.
KK believes that cocktails are a way to connect people and evoke shared experiences.
“The best part of what we do is seeing people come together to enjoy our drinks,”
he says.
“Cocktails can be a catalyst for conversation and connection, and that’s what makes this work so fulfilling.”
One of KK’s personal favourite creations, though not on the menu, is a twist on the classic Negroni. By ageing Campari in the oven to caramelise its sugars, he’s created a version that keeps the Negroni’s character but is less bitter.
“We wanted to make something familiar but different,”
KK explains.
“It’s all about balance and bringing out the best in each ingredient.”
KK’s journey is driven by the power of passion and dedication.
“If you love something, go all in,”
he advises.
“Keep pushing and improving. Excellence has no finish line.”
KK and his team are pushing the boundary of what it means to create a memorable drinking experience. With the Expression Menu, cocktails can reflect global cultures and celebrate local craftsmanship.
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